Celtic 14 Lathe Manual
Mondiale Celtic 14 Lathe email: Mondiale Celtic 14 Lathe are available from While the 7.28-inch centre height by 20, 30, 40 or 60 inches between-centres Mondiale Celtic '14' was, in terms of its design, almost identical to the 6-inch centre height Model '12' it was not just the same machine with an increased centre height but a completely re-engineered lathe that carried over only a few minor parts. It was intended for heavy-duty use in industry and repair workshops and, when fitted with the optional bed-mounted capstan unit, for light production work as well. It was mounted on two heavy cast-iron plinths spanned by a deep slide-out chip tray; unfortunately there was no form of storage, not even an open shelf, for either tools or accessories.
Really?’ — in low whisper and with fluffy eyebrows raised, a cashier of nearby deli asked me.
The headstock was divided (and stiffened) by two internal walls into 3 compartments: that nearest the spindle nose contained the oil-bath lubricated reduction-gearing set (with an unusual male and female 'sprocket' engagement); the centre part held the V-belt drive pulley and was sealed to keep the belts oil free while the left-hand section was devoted to the oil-immersed 'reversing' gears that drove the train of screwcutting changewheels. At 1 3/8 ' the bore of the No. 5 Morse taper headstock spindle was rather small - on the 7-inch Colchester Triumph it was 2' - but it ran in Timken taper roller bearings and was driven by 2 V belts from a 4-speed gearbox mounted inside the left-hand cabinet plinth.
For the standard lathe the spindle nose was a 5.5 mm pitch 60 mm-diameter thread but for the high-speed version the safe and effective (and at the time very popular) American long taper in an L0 size - two sizes below the much heavier-duty L1 size fitted to the Triumph. The spindle-speed gearbox was operated by an large chrome-plated lever on the font of the stand and fitted with oil-splash lubricated, induction-hardened gears running on ball-bearing supported, hardened and splined shafts. Bolted underneath the gearbox was a push-button controlled electric motor with 2 speeds as standard; for the faster of the two spindle-speed ranges this was a 3/1.9 HP unit and for the slower a 2/1.6 HP; combined with the single-lever-operated headstock-mounted reduction gearing the drive gave a total of 16 speeds from 24 to 1000 rpm on the standard lathe and 38 to 1600 rpm on the high-speed version. Strangely, although the smaller model 12 lathe was offered with a powerful foot-operated spindle brake, no such option as available for the 14L a situation that must have frustrated many operators as they watched their bonus-payment seconds slip away because a 100 lb lump would not stop rotating quickly enough. The V-way bed could be had with, or without, a detachable gap piece that allowed material up to 21.25' inches in diameter and approximately 4' in thickness from the faceplate to be swung.
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The V-ways were of a design similar to that first used on the beautiful American Wade No. 7 precision bench lathe where the (asymmetric) front V was both laid back at a shallower angle than normal and made especially wide; the rear surface was narrower and, in order to better absorb tool thrust, set at a steeper angle. Although not hardened (a process restricted to the extensive options' list) the bed was of robust construction and relatively deep in relation to the machine's centre height. With every thread or feed selection made by rotary levers (and a consequent absence of sliding controls) the oil-bath screwcutting gearbox (with hardened gears) could be completely sealed against the ingress of dirt and swarf. By using just the ordinary set of changewheels the box was able to generate 54 English pitches (from 96 to 1 5/8 t.p.i.) and 27 metric (from 0.25 to 10 mm pitch) - a range superior to the 45 English and 12 metric of the Colchester Triumph.
The sliding and surfacing feeds totalled 54 from 0.0027' to 0.144' per revolution of the spindle on longitudinal travel and from 0.00135' to 0.072' on the cross feed. With a different changewheel set on the quadrant arm a complete range of diametral and module pitches could be produced and the 5-segment screwcutting chart included these thread sets in its layout. Leadscrew was ground finished for accuracy and its bronze engagement clasp nuts adjustable for backlash; the power feeds were taken to the apron by a separate keyed shaft working though a torque-limiting coupling that also, very usefully, permitted work to be turned against stops.
With its double-wall construction, oil-bath lubrication and ingenious mechanical design the all-helical-geared apron was well engineered for its task - and of the type also used throughout the Celtic range. The drive shaft from the gearbox transmitted its power through a worm and wheel to a shaft that passed vertically though the centre line of the casting; at the top of the shaft a double-sided dog clutch (operated by a very large combined selection and engagement quadrant lever on the face of the apron) moved up or down to select power surfacing and sliding feeds respectively. Although the apron was a robust and reliable piece of engineering its feeds engagement mechanism suffered from the usual drawback of all quadrant-lever operated systems: the awkward double action of pulling out the location plunger and swinging the operating arm sideways meant that an instant (and certain) disengagement of the feeds was impossible. A simple flick-in-and-out lever, working in a vertical plane between fixed positions (and through some sort of overload protection), would have been much preferred in this situation. The right-hand face of the apron provided a pivoting point for a lever that operated a spindle reversing switch - a useful safety feature, especially on longer bed versions where the operator could be at some distance from the headstock-mounted push buttons.
Entirely conventional (though without T-slots in its top surface) the saddle carried a compound slide rest with proper taper gibs that were adjustable, with the usual sensitivity, by a push screw at the front and a stop screw at the rear. Two cross slides were available, both with a travel of 9.25': a plain-top standard version version - unfortunately shorter than the slide that it ran on and with a cast extension cover at the rear to protect the feed screw - and a full-length T-slotted one able to accommodate a rear-mounted toolpost, its support block and other accessories.
The top slide could be rotated only 45 degrees in either direction but came complete with an indexing (though 8-positions) 4-way toolpost. The tailstock was, perhaps the weakest point in the lathe's specification for, although the (unhardened) 1.875'-diameter No. 4 Morse taper barrel was 'microfinished' its travel was short at 4.344' and the clamp nut required a loose spanner to operate - the latter gambit may have saved the makers money but was guaranteed to waste time in the customer's workshop when the spanner was inevitably 'borrowed' for some other task. The top section of the tailstock could be offset in the usual way for taper turning and had a maximum movement of 3/8'. The weight of the lathe varied with the between-centres capacity as follows: 20' 1600 lbs; 30' 1765 lbs; 40' 1875 lbs; 50' 1930 lbs. 7.28-inch centre height by 20, 30, 40 or 60 inches between-centres Mondiale Celtic '14' Celtic 14 lathe headstock internals with the slow-speed 'backgear' engaged - the dog-clutch has been slid forwards into engagement with the Bull Wheel. The re-positioned drive system shows that the '14' was not just a '12' with an increased centre height but a completely re-engineered lathe that shared with it only a few minor parts.
Are available from Mondiale Celtic 14 Lathe email.
Hello Everyone, I am new to the machining hobby. I am in the process of acquiring tools for my lathe works. For a start, I like to cut and recrown some barrels, eventually I want to learn how to thread the barrel for either a flash suppressor or muzzle break. I would like to ask for some basic information on what kind of tools should i get.
Almost two years ago, I bought a used Celtic 20 lathe (made by the French). I am slowly trying to get it in operational.
This lathe has an Aloris CA size tool post. I would like to have some recommnedations on facing tools, cutting tool suitable to the CA size tool post. I already have some tool holders that suit the CA. I look into both ENCO and McMaster catalog and I have no clue on what to get. I like the idea of using the carbide tool so that I don't have to grind them.
Would you please point me to the right direction. Thanks a bunch in advance. Before you get in too deep. Make sure the hole through the headstock spindle is large enough for barrel work - probably a minimum of about 1.25 inch. Also does the lathe do threading in 'english' inch fractions - e.g. 14 tpi, 20tpi, 24tpi, etc, and does it do the threads needed for the work you want?
Do the tool holders that you already own use replaceable carbide (triangular) inserts, or are they for square shank tool bits. Do you know what size inserts or square bits the holders will accept? If you buy 'brazed carbide' square shank bits, then I recommend getting the 'made in USA' brands - they are much more likely to have the carbide installed correctly. I bought some import ENCO bargin bits and had to return them because they were so bad. It is vital that the tip of the tool bits contacts the work at the height of the center of the spindle - or maybe just a little higher. Jay Kosta Endwell NY USA.
You say you have an Aloris quick change holder. Getting your tool on center should be no problem. Actually you want your tool on center or slightly low for tuning outside diameters and the exact opposite for boring.
The closer to being on center you are the more accurate your work will be. The only time you want to run your tool high turning OD's is stainless or 4140.(there are no absolutes in machine work) Allowing the tool to rub slightly will reduce chatter and close the surface of the material, but don't worry about that for now. I like a trigicon insert and for a small lathe you can get a tool holder with a 3/8 IC and two turning tools(left hand-right hand) will do 80% of what you want.
A trigicon shape insert will face and turn. For a boring bar I would get a positive rake holder. Two sizes wil cover most of your work. A positive rake tool will allow you to bore smaller holes and does fine on bigger ones as well just don't run the feed slow. Check MSC Ind supply. You already have your lathe so if the hole thru the center is small learn how to use a steady rest.
Surely it will thred in inches. If not sell it. I still use a High speed toolbit for a lot of threading. I like one with some Cobalt and I grind a chipbreaker into the tool.
Most inserted carbide threading tools don't feature a chipbreaker and are a little brittle (they break alot)for threading IMHO. Brand names of tool holders are escaping me but the super cheap ones are just crap and a waste of money.
If you try to work with junk you will be wondering why things aren't working out. Look for a tool holder that locks the insert from 2 directions and has a wafer under the insert.
If you buy some tool holders new go ahead and buy extra screws and wafers just in case they discontinue the line or go out of business. Ask me how I know this.If you find a deal on some used ones make sure you can get parts for it.
A tool holder you can't get replacement parts for is scrape iron. Hi MemphisMachinists, Thanks very for your wisdom. My Celtic 20 Lathe is a bigger brother of the one from above video segment. It's a very massive lathe, 5000lbs with 2.75 spindle bore, 20' swing, 72' bed.
I am in the process of acquiring tooling for it. Just bought a 25HP RPC to get power conversion. I am new to the hobby, I don't have any experiences in the metal working yet. During my early student career at UTK, most of my time was in classroom and theory environment. There wasn't much hand on stuffs at university/college anymore.
I am also trying to retrofit my other Monarch 10EE lathe with a better drive system. The current drive is too weak to do any useful work.
I might put in a 10HP inverter duty motor with an appropriate VFD box. My goal is to get everything running by this coming summer. What is your lathe setup? I am curious. I will try to post pictures of my setup once i have everything hookup. Hi MemphisMachinists, Thanks very for your wisdom.
My Celtic 20 Lathe is a bigger brother of the one from above video segment. It's a very massive lathe, 5000lbs with 2.75 spindle bore, 20' swing, 72' bed. I am in the process of acquiring tooling for it. Just bought a 25HP RPC to get power conversion.
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I am new to the hobby, I don't have any experiences in the metal working yet. During my early student career at UTK, most of my time was in classroom and theory environment. There wasn't much hand on stuffs at university/college anymore. I am also trying to retrofit my other Monarch 10EE lathe with a better drive system. The current drive is too weak to do any useful work.
I might put in a 10HP inverter duty motor with an appropriate VFD box. My goal is to get everything running by this coming summer. What is your lathe setup? I am curious. I will try to post pictures of my setup once i have everything hookup.